Before the climbing season started I had a few major areas I wanted to explore for route development purposes, one already underway - The Domicile - and two more that I though had incredible potential. In addition to these upcoming adventures I knew I was also also going to help with other people's new routes and secret spots.
The majority of the routes were already done or planned out at this area. I had found this area in 2023 and only started development in 2024 when I could actually get someone else to come look at the lines. Two new routes were completed in 2025 and the final two are set to be bolted at the very beginning of the season in 2026 with Alex's help. The final tally of this area will be 5 sport lines, 3 mixed lines utilizing gear, and two topropes due to hollow rock. All between 5.2 and 5.7 and about 65' each. This is the type of area I wish I had when I started to lead - be the change you want to see in the world. Every individual who has previously taken the initiative to develop routes on Sonora Pass, including names like Dave Yerian, Ken Yager, and Royal Robbins, would rather climb harder than 5.7, so sometimes if you want something done you have to do it yourself.
The Domicile sits 1/3 mile southwest of Quickie Mart and a couple hundred yards in from the highway.
I first walked by this crag summer of 2024 and tried to find any traces of climbing. Of course I found nothing but that doesn't mean it's never been climbed before, the alpine granite cracks are too clean to ever know if climbing had occurred here previously without finding an old stopper or cord deep in a crack. So while these might not be true first ascents I was really drawn to the lines and decided to take it upon myself to climb and document them.
Jacky helped me out with this just after Memorial Day. The snow was still in huge patches on the approach but the crag was completely dry on May 28 (One week after the snow depth on sonora pass was reported as zero for the day). The crag sits fully out of the shade of trees and in the sun for the first half of the day. This area is absolutely beautiful during this time of year, all of the cascades are running, the peaks are snowy, the weather is often perfect, and the days are long.
I first climbed Hula Girls, a scrappy VB boulder problem to a low angle corner. Jacky then lead the variation that ascends the crack in the vertical wall half way up the ramp. And to finish off the evening Jacky lead Gold Nugget, a fantastic and easier than expected climb that zigzags up the twin crack system around the corner left of Hula Girls. Three new routes in a day is always a good feeling. There are still another 5 or 6 all gear routes and lots of potential to bolt lines on a few clean faces in between the cracks - the rock is full of small knobs, which is great for face climbing but makes the cracks quite painful.
The 9600' Crag sits about a mile before Sonora Pass and 400 yards west of the highway up the hillside at the same elevation as Sonora Pass. This crag is possibly one of the best places to climb when it's hot everywhere on the pass, it's one of the highest elevation crags on the pass, in the afternoon you'll be in the shade, and if there is any wind reported on sonora pass you'll feel the breeze.
This one has been a long time coming. And in 2025 I only barely made a dent. Of course the first two pitches that were climbed happened to be a stellar 3 star corner with a roof, and then a boring no star fist crack to offwidth. But that's just sometimes how it goes.
This year I was able to clear brush on the approaches and cliff top, clean two routes and do the FA (in December!!!), figure out a line that goes from the bottom to the top of the cliff, and plan out the next year's activities.
Thanks to Joel, Jacky, and Brad for the bush whacking, planning, bolt drilling, and help with the FAs of the first two routes. The western frontier sits near Donnell Lake. This one is being kept a secret for now, but I intend this place to be the premier Sonora Pass adventure climb destination for the beginning and end of each season. It has no access issues when the highway is open to Donnell Vista, and a low elevation in the sun that can make it a great place in the Spring and Fall. When the 600' Ford Falls cascade is flowing at it's peak each Spring this cliff is possibly the most accessible picturesque place to climb in California, with a slightly shorter drive than Yosemite, no entry fee, free disperse camping nearly anywhere, and a guarantee of not seeing another soul out there (At least until the next guidebook is released in ten years)
Sam and Andrew started bolting a moderate slab sport climb on lead at a new area up Herring Creek road. This crag requires specific weather to be an enjoyable place to hang out, so it will probably be completed by them in the fall of 2026.
In addition to my own projects I have lead the development for, I helped with the following other first ascents on Sonora Pass:
Burst Rock: I belayed the first ascensionist on a beautiful three star hard 5.10 finger crack and followed on toprope.
Near Burst Rock: A simple but excellent mixed bolt and gear moderate slab climb that I traded leads with Brad to bolt on lead.
The first route at the new low elevation crag - The Junkyard. Discovered by myself and Munge, I bolted the first easy route on lead in January 2025. This crag is the perfect wintertime crag sitting at 5500 feet, near the highway, and the wall is a semicircle directly south facing, channeling all of the sun's heat on the belay stations.
One new pitch on a new route at Atlantis, but that's a story for another day.